Iris Apfel

Iris Apfel Pdf

Iris Apfel

Author: ,

Publisher: HarperCollins

ISBN: 0062405098

Genre: Design

Page: 176

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Book Summary: "I have rarely met someone as vivid, as alive, as vital, vivacious, irreverent, joyous, relevant, and needed as Iris. She breathes young air, thinks young thoughts, and gathers no dust. I simply adore her."--Dries van Noten A unique and lavishly illustrated collection of musings, anecdotes, and observations on all matters of life and style, infused with the singular candor, wit, and exuberance of the globally revered ninety-six-year-old fashion icon whose work has been celebrated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute and by countless fans worldwide. A woman who transcends time and trends, Iris Apfel is a true original, one of the most dynamic personalities in the worlds of fashion, textiles, and interior design. As the cofounder with her husband, Carl Apfel, of Old World Weavers, an international textile manufacturing company that specialized in reproducing antique fabrics, her prestigious clientele has included Greta Garbo, Estee Lauder, Montgomery Clift, and Joan Rivers. She also acted as a restoration consultant and replicated fabric for the White House over nine presidential administrations. Iris’s travels worldwide and a passion for flea markets of all sorts inspired her work and fueled her passion for collecting fashion and accessories. In 2005, she was the first living person who was not a designer to have her clothing and accessories exhibited at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a blockbuster show that catapulted her to fame and a career as a supermodel, muse, and collaborator for renowned brands, from Citroen to Tag Heuer, and global gigs at Bon Marché in Paris and the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong. In 2015, acclaimed director Albert Maysles released Iris, his last film—now an Emmy Award nominee—to a global audience. Now, this self-dubbed geriatric starlet, whose irrepressible authenticity, wit, candor, and infectious energy have earned her nearly a million followers on social media, has created an entertaining, thought-provoking, visually arresting, and inspiring volume—her first book—that captures her unique joie de vivre. Iris Apfel: Accidental Icon, contains an eclectic mix of musings and 180 full-color and black-and-white photos and illustrations—presented in the same improvisational, multifaceted style that have made Iris a contemporary fashion icon. Astute maxims, witty anecdotes from childhood to the present, essays on style and various subjects, from the decline of manners to the importance of taking risks, fill the book as do lists, both proclamatory, revelatory, and advisory. All are paired with a bold, color-filled, exciting design that varies from page to page. Here, too, is a treasure trove of never-before-published personal photographs and mementos, mixed with images from top international fashion photographers and illustrators with enchanting, surprising novelties such as Disney cartoons, vintage postcards, the Iris Apfel Halloween costume for children, and more.


Hugo & Rose

Hugo & Rose Pdf

Hugo & Rose

Author: Bridget Foley

Publisher: St. Martin\'s Press

ISBN: 1466859547

Genre: Fiction

Page: 352

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Book Summary: Rose is disappointed with her life, though she has no reason to be - she has a beautiful family and a perfectly nice house in the suburbs. But to Rose, this ordinary life feels overshadowed by her other life - the one she leads every night in her dreams. After a childhood accident, Rose's dreams take her to a wondrous island fraught with adventure. On this island, she has never been alone: she shares it with Hugo, a brave boy who's grown up with her into a hero of a man. But when Rose stumbles across Hugo in real life, both her real and dream worlds are changed forever. Here is the man who has shared all of her incredible adventures in impossible places, who grew up with her, even if they aren't what either one imagined. Their chance encounter begins a cascade of questions, lies, and a dangerous obsession that threatens to topple everything she knows. Is she willing to let go of everything she holds dear to understand their extraordinary connection? And will it lead her to discover who she truly wants to be?


Digitalization in the Luxury Fashion Industry

Digitalization in the Luxury Fashion Industry Pdf

Digitalization in the Luxury Fashion Industry

Author: Anna Cabigiosu

Publisher: Springer Nature

ISBN: 3030488101

Genre: Business & Economics

Page: 249

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Book Summary: The luxury fashion industry is one of the best performing and fastest growing industries in today’s business landscape, and is set to continue expanding over the next years. Exploring the effects of digitalization, this book aims to increase our understanding of the key drivers of internal growth and competitiveness in luxury fashion firms. With a focus on the development of new brand strategies brought about by digitalization, the author outlines the need for business models to be redesigned in order to make use of social media and satisfy Millennial consumers. Offering case studies on leading luxury fashion brands, this timely book evaluates new digital technologies and strategies including omnichannel marketing, 3D printing and smart textiles. A must-read for those researching digital marketing and branding, as well as luxury or fashion management, this book provides a much-needed and up-to-date analysis of a successful and digitally aware industry.


Luxury Fashion Branding

Luxury Fashion Branding Pdf

Luxury Fashion Branding

Author: U. Okonkwo

Publisher: Springer

ISBN: 0230590888

Genre: Business & Economics

Page: 352

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Book Summary: This groundbreaking fashion branding and management text brings an analytical business dimension to the marketing and corporate techniques of the luxury fashion goods industry. It will make engaging reading for anyone who wishes to learn about the captivating business of turning functional products into objects of desire.


Tom Ford. Гид по ароматам и история бренда

Tom Ford. Гид по ароматам и история бренда Pdf

Tom Ford. Гид по ароматам и история бренда

Author: Виктория Зонова

Publisher: Litres

ISBN: 5043528842

Genre: Self-Help

Page: N.A

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Book Summary: Книга о нишевом парфюмерном доме Tom Ford, его истории и ароматах – десятая из серии книг автора о селективной парфюмерии. На ее страницах вы найдете описание 80-ти легендарных ароматов Tom Ford.Узнаете, кто создает парфюмы и чем они вдохновлены, полные пирамиды, разложенные на ноты.Эмоции, впечатления и фото автора любовно поданы в тексте книги.Эта увлекательная книга для ценителей парфюмерного мастерства, поможет вам в выборе своего парфюма.Чувствуйте красоту жизни, вдыхая любимый аромат!


The Road to Luxury

The Road to Luxury Pdf

The Road to Luxury

Author: Ashok Som,Christian Blanckaert

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 0470830050

Genre: Business & Economics

Page: 432

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Book Summary: A thorough, comprehensive guide to the luxury goods industry for executives, entrepreneurs, and students interested to know about the luxury business As key new luxury markets like Asia, Latin America and Africa continue to expand, The Road to Luxury: The Evolution, Markets and Strategies of Luxury Brand Management gives professionals interested in the industry a holistic understanding of luxury market dynamics around the world using stories, experiences, relevant data and statistics on current market trends. For investors, the book offers valuable insight on where the industry is headed. For industry insiders and executives, it presents valuable data with which to craft successful business strategies. The definitive insider's guide to the luxury sector by leading figures in the field Includes rigorous academic data, including information on the business attractiveness and appropriateness of various country markets Examines strategies and success factors of key players, and insight into the systems and operations, retail, distribution and e-commerce, emerging markets and emerging brands, as well as management styles For professionals in the luxury industry, as well as those studying it or investing in it, The Road to Luxury presents a complete and information-packed resource covering virtually every aspect of this growing sector.


Lynchings in Kansas, 1850s–1932

Lynchings in Kansas, 1850s–1932 Pdf

Lynchings in Kansas, 1850s–1932

Author: Harriet C. Frazier

Publisher: McFarland

ISBN: 1476617791

Genre: History

Page: 228

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Book Summary: In 1933, Genevieve Yost, Kansas State Historical Society cataloger, published a “History of Lynching in Kansas.” The present book is a development of that work, researched with the benefit of modern technology. The author locates 58 lynchings Yost missed and removes 19 from her list that for various reasons are not lynchings in Kansas. Yost apparently catalogued her 123 entries, some containing up to six names, based on her newspaper sources’ headlines, not the actual stories on the lynchings. Her catalog places some events in counties that did not exist at the time of the lynching. In this book, errors in her data are corrected: misspelled names, incorrect places and dates, and the number of victims per incident. In agreement with Yost, the author finds that most of the victims were white men who were horse thieves, their deaths taking place in the eastern tier of counties bordering Missouri, an area then and now where most Kansans lived. The last lynching in Kansas took place in 1932 in the extreme northwest of the state, and an interview of an eyewitness is included.


Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe [4 volumes]

Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe [4 volumes] Pdf

Clothing and Fashion: American Fashion from Head to Toe [4 volumes]

Author: José Blanco F.,Patricia Kay Hunt-Hurst,Heather Vaughan Lee,Mary Doering

Publisher: ABC-CLIO

ISBN: 1610693108

Genre: History

Page: 1786

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Book Summary: This unique four-volume encyclopedia examines the historical significance of fashion trends, revealing the social and cultural connections of clothing from the precolonial times to the present day. • Covers the fashions of all economic levels of Americans from the indigent to the very wealthy, from T-shirts to architecturally sculptured gowns and suits • Includes hundreds of illustrations, sidebars, and primary documents to illuminate important areas of interest and encourage active learning • Addresses topics such as the formal wear of the Belle Epoque era, hairstyles of the Empire Revival, haute couture, and the evolution of clothes for teenagers • Presents four full-color photographic essays of clothing styles throughout American history


Luxury Talent Management

Luxury Talent Management Pdf

Luxury Talent Management

Author: G. Auguste,M. Gutsatz

Publisher: Springer

ISBN: 1137270675

Genre: Business & Economics

Page: 276

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Book Summary: The first book focusing specifically on talent management, retention and leadership in the luxury industry. It explores how to lead and manage the people this industry attracts, and the major HR challenges the industry is about to face as the previous generation of luxury pioneers retire and Asia becomes a major player in the luxury world.


Hijacking the Runway

Hijacking the Runway Pdf

Hijacking the Runway

Author: Teri Agins

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 0698162153

Genre: Business & Economics

Page: 304

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Book Summary: A fascinating chronicle of how celebrity has inundated the world of fashion, realigning the forces that drive both the styles we covet and the bottom lines of the biggest names in luxury apparel. From Coco Chanel’s iconic tweed suits to the miniskirt’s surprising comeback in the late 1980s, fashion houses reigned for decades as the arbiters of style and dictators of trends. Hollywood stars have always furthered fashion’s cause of seducing the masses into buying designers’ clothes, acting as living billboards. Now, forced by the explosion of social media and the accelerating worship of fame, red carpet celebrities are no longer content to just advertise and are putting their names on labels that reflect the image they—or their stylists—created. Jessica Simpson, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, Sean Combs, and a host of pop, sports, and reality-show stars of the moment are leveraging the power of their celebrity to become the face of their own fashion brands, embracing lucrative contracts that keep their images on our screens and their hands on the wheel of a multi-billion dollar industry. And a few celebrities—like the Olsen Twins and Victoria Beckham—have gone all the way and reinvented themselves as bonafide designers. Not all celebrities succeed, but in an ever more crowded and clamorous marketplace, it’s increasingly unlikely that any fashion brand will succeed without celebrity involvement—even if designers, like Michael Kors, have to become celebrities themselves. Agins charts this strange new terrain with wit and insight and an insider’s access to the fascinating struggles of the bold-type names and their jealousies, insecurities, and triumphs. Everyone from industry insiders to fans of Project Runway and America's Next Top Model will want to read Agins’s take on the glitter and stardust transforming the fashion industry, and where it is likely to take us next.


The American Isherwood

The American Isherwood Pdf

The American Isherwood

Author: James J. Berg,Chris Freeman

Publisher: U of Minnesota Press

ISBN: 1452943370

Genre: Literary Criticism

Page: 352

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Book Summary: Novelist, memoirist, diarist, and gay pioneer Christopher Isherwood left a wealth of writings. Known for his crisp style and his camera-like precision with detail, Isherwood gained fame for his Berlin Stories, which served as source material for the hit stage musical and Academy Award–winning film Cabaret. More recently, his experiences and career in the United States have received increased attention. His novel A Single Man was adapted into an Oscar-nominated film; his long relationship with the artist Don Bachardy, with whom he shared an openly gay lifestyle, was the subject of an award-winning documentary, Chris & Don: A Love Story; and his memoir, Christopher and His Kind, was adapted for the BBC. Isherwood’s colorful journeys took him from post–World War I England to Weimar Germany to European exile to Golden Age Hollywood to Los Angeles in the full flower of gay liberation. After the publication of his diaries, which run to more than one million words and span nearly a half century, it is possible to fully assess his influence. This collection of essays considers Isherwood’s diaries, his vast personal archive, and his published works and offers a multifaceted appreciation of a writer who spent more than half of his life in southern California. James J. Berg and Chris Freeman have brought together the most informative scholarship of the twenty-first century to illuminate the craft of one of the singular figures of the twentieth century. Isherwood, the American, emerges from the shadow of his English reputation to stake his claim as a significant force in late twentieth-century American culture whose legacy continues in the twenty-first century. Contributors: Joshua Adair, Murray State U; Jamie Carr, Niagara U; Robert L. Caserio, Pennsylvania State U; Niladri Chatterjee, U of Kalyani, India; Lisa Colletta, American U of Rome; Lois Cucullu, U of Minnesota; Mario Faraone; Peter Edgerly Firchow; Rebecca Gordon Stewart; William R. Handley, U of Southern California; Jaime Harker, U of Mississippi; Sara S. Hodson, Huntington Library; Carola M. Kaplan, California State U, Pomona; Benjamin Kohlmann, U of Freiburg, Germany; Victor Marsh, U of Queensland; Tina Mascara; Stephen McCauley; Paul M. McNeil, Columbia U; Guido Santi, College of the Canyons, California; Kyle Stevens, Brandeis U.


James Bond in World and Popular Culture

James Bond in World and Popular Culture Pdf

James Bond in World and Popular Culture

Author: Robert G. Weiner,B. Lynn Whitfield,Jack Becker

Publisher: Cambridge Scholars Publishing

ISBN: 1443843849

Genre: Performing Arts

Page: 543

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Book Summary: James Bond in World and Popular Culture: The Films are Not Enough provides the most comprehensive study of the James Bond phenomena ever published. The 40 original essays provide new insights, scholarship, and understanding to the world of James Bond. Topics include the Bond girl, Bond related video games, Ian Fleming’s relationship with the notorious Aleister Crowley and CIA director Alan Dulles. Other articles include Fleming as a character in modern fiction, Bond Jr. comics, the post Fleming novels of John Gardner and Raymond Benson, Bond as an American Superhero, and studies on the music, dance, fashion, and architecture in Bond films. Woody Allen and Peter Sellers as James Bond are also considered, as are Japanese imitation films from the 1960s, the Britishness of Bond, comparisons of Bond to Christian ideals, movie posters and much more. Scholars from a wide variety of disciplines have contributed a unique collection of perspectives on the world of James Bond and its history. Despite the diversity of viewpoints, the unifying factor is the James Bond mythos. James Bond in World and Popular Culture: The Films are Not Enough is a much needed contribution to Bond studies and shows how this cultural icon has changed the world.


Reattachment Theory

Reattachment Theory Pdf

Reattachment Theory

Author: Lee Wallace

Publisher: Duke University Press

ISBN: 1478009136

Genre: Performing Arts

Page: 264

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Book Summary: In Reattachment Theory Lee Wallace argues that homosexuality—far from being the threat to “traditional” marriage that same-sex marriage opponents have asserted—is so integral to its reimagining that all marriage is gay marriage. Drawing on the history of marriage, Stanley Cavell's analysis of Hollywood comedies of remarriage, and readings of recent gay and lesbian films, Wallace shows that queer experiments in domesticity have reshaped the affective and erotic horizons of heterosexual marriage and its defining principles: fidelity, exclusivity, and endurance. Wallace analyzes a series of films—Dorothy Arzner's Craig's Wife (1936); Tom Ford's A Single Man (2009); Lisa Cholodenko's High Art (1998), Laurel Canyon (2002), and The Kids Are All Right (2010); and Andrew Haigh's Weekend (2011) and 45 Years (2015)—that, she contends, do not simply reflect social and legal changes; they fundamentally alter our sense of what sexual attachment involves as both a social and a romantic form.


Reattachment Theory

Reattachment Theory Pdf

Reattachment Theory

Author: Lee Wallace

Publisher: Duke University Press

ISBN: 1478009136

Genre: Performing Arts

Page: 264

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Book Summary: In Reattachment Theory Lee Wallace argues that homosexuality—far from being the threat to “traditional” marriage that same-sex marriage opponents have asserted—is so integral to its reimagining that all marriage is gay marriage. Drawing on the history of marriage, Stanley Cavell's analysis of Hollywood comedies of remarriage, and readings of recent gay and lesbian films, Wallace shows that queer experiments in domesticity have reshaped the affective and erotic horizons of heterosexual marriage and its defining principles: fidelity, exclusivity, and endurance. Wallace analyzes a series of films—Dorothy Arzner's Craig's Wife (1936); Tom Ford's A Single Man (2009); Lisa Cholodenko's High Art (1998), Laurel Canyon (2002), and The Kids Are All Right (2010); and Andrew Haigh's Weekend (2011) and 45 Years (2015)—that, she contends, do not simply reflect social and legal changes; they fundamentally alter our sense of what sexual attachment involves as both a social and a romantic form.


Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism

Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism Pdf

Fashion, Dress and Post-postmodernism

Author: José Blanco F.,Andrew Reilly

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1350115185

Genre: Design

Page: 232

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Book Summary: Scholars have argued that postmodernism is dead and that we are entering into a new era that some have labelled altermodernism, digimodernism, performatism, and post-postmodernism. This book expands on the nascent scholarship of post-postmodernism to highlight how dress, fashion, and appearance are reflections of this new age. The volume starts with a discussion of fashion, subjectivity, and time and an analysis of temporality, technology, and fashion in post-postmodern times. Later chapters analyse the work of design houses and mass producers such as Vetements, Gucci, and Uniqlo whose products align with post-postmodern aesthetics, hyperconsumption, and hypermodern branding. The book looks at diverse geographic and identity markers by discussing post-postmodernism and the religio-politico-cultural questions in South Asian Muslim fashion, image and identity presentation in queer social networking apps, and by exploring fashion designer Tom Ford's output as a movie director. Two chapters discuss the post-postmodern fashion exhibition with analyses of recent exhibitions and an in-depth look at the work of exhibition maker Judith Clark. The final chapter is written by members of The Rational Dress Society, a counter-fashion collective that makes JUMPSUIT, an experimental garment to replace all clothes. Fashion, Dress, and Post-postmodernism is a companion to research on relationships between post-postmodernism, fashion, and dress, and the go-to resource for researchers and students interested in these areas.


Retail Market Study 2012

Retail Market Study 2012 Pdf

Retail Market Study 2012

Author: Marc-Christian Riebe

Publisher: The Location Group

ISBN: 3033033687

Genre: ,

Page: 498

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Book Summary: The first Worldwide Retail Market Study carried out by the Location Group examined the 65 most noteworthy international fashion capitals, together with Switzerland, Germany and Austria on 500 pages. As part of this study, 850 retailers, 600 High Streets and 450 shopping centres were put under the microscope. 53 newcomers to Zurich's Bahnhofstrasse were described in the 10-year report.


The Asylum

The Asylum Pdf

The Asylum

Author: Simon Doonan

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 1101594217

Genre: Humor

Page: 288

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Book Summary: After nearly a lifetime spent in the Industry, author and fashion insider Simon Doonan is ready to let you in on a little secret: his peers in this multibillion-dollar industry are just as nutty as the denizens of your local loony bin. In The Asylum, an unabashedly hilarious collection of autobiographical essays, Doonan, the creative ambassador for Barneys New York, tells the real-life stories of glamorous madness and stylish insanity. Doonan has witnessed models unable to work for fear of ghosts, gone deep-sea fishing with a couturier pal and his jailbird companion, and watched Anna Wintour remain perfectly calm while the ceiling fell—literally—in the middle of Fashion Week. Once you start looking, he says, you’ll notice telltale signs of lunacy everywhere. Style insiders see patterns and trends in everything; they suffer from outsize personality disorders and delusions of grandeur; and of course, they have a predilection for theatrical makeup and artfully destroyed clothing. No one is more suited to the asylum than the truly die-hard fashionista—after all, eccentricity and extremism are the foundations of great style. With his gimlet eye for the absurd and a love for eccentricity, Doonan’s personal and professional stories never fail to entertain. “The David Sedaris of the style universe” (The Boston Globe) gives us the scoop on the kooky, cutthroat—but always fabulous—fashion world, and proves himself one of the sharpest humorists writing today.


John Ford

John Ford Pdf

John Ford

Author: Brian Spittles

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1317875117

Genre: Performing Arts

Page: 140

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Book Summary: John Ford is a monumental figure in Hollywood and world cinema. Throughout his long and varied career spanning the silent and sound era, he produced nearly 150 films of which Iron Horse (1924), Stagecoach (1939), The Grapes of Wrath (1940), How Green Was My Valley (1941), The Searchers (1956) and The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance (1962) are classics of cinema. Ford was also an influential figure in developing, and extending Hollywood's traditions. Stylistically Ford was instrumental in developing new camera techniques, atmospheric lighting and diverse narrative devices. Thematically, long before it became conventional wisdom, Ford was exploring issues that concern us today, such as gender, race, the treatment of ethnic minorities and social outcasts, the nature of history and the relationship of myth and reality. For all these reasons, John Ford the man and his films reward thought and study, both for the general reader and the academic student. Ford's pictures express the world in which they were made, and have contributed to making what Hollywood is today. This book illustrates the excitement, importance, influence, creativity, deviousness and complexity of the man and his films.


The Great Fashion Designers

The Great Fashion Designers Pdf

The Great Fashion Designers

Author: Brenda Polan,Roger Tredre

Publisher: Berg

ISBN: 0857851756

Genre: Design

Page: 252

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Book Summary: Over the course of the last 180 years, designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights with engaging essays that capture the spirit of their times. This revised edition has hundreds of inspiring colour photos and features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair, showing us fashion at its most inspirational.


Giant Country

Giant Country Pdf

Giant Country

Author: Don Graham

Publisher: Texas A&M University Press

ISBN: 0875654878

Genre: History

Page: 290

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Book Summary: In Giant Country Don Graham brings together a collection of lively, absorbing essays written over the past two decades. The collection begins with a twist on book introductions that sets the tone for the essays to come—a self-interview conducted poolside at an eccentric Houston motel favored by regional rock bands. Over piña coladas the author works on his tan and discusses timeless Texas themes: the transition of the state from a rural to an urban world, the sense of a vanishing era, and the way that artists in literature and film represent a state both infectiously grand and too big for its britches. In “Fildelphia Story,” Graham remembers his Ivy League professorial stint in a city the small-town Texan who rented him a moving van looked up under “F.” In “Doing England” the Lone Star Yankee courts Oxford University and returns with a veddy British education. In “The Ground Sense Necessary” a native son journeys inward to explore the dry ceremonies of frontier Protestantism and to recount movingly his father's funeral in Collin County. With his wide-ranging knowledge of classic regional works, Graham unerringly traces the style and substance of local literary giants and offers a sometimes irreverent but always entertaining look at the Texas triumvirate of Dobie, Webb and Bedichek. Other essays look at such Texas greats as Katherine Anne Porter, George Sessions Perry, William Humphrey and John Graves. In a section he calls “Polemics,” Graham includes his best known essays, “Palefaces vs. Redskins,” a sardonic survey of the Texas literary landscape, and “Anything for Larry,” a tour de force that has already become a minor classic. The essay weighs the puny financial achievements of Graham against those of mega-author Larry McMurtry and never fails to bring down the house when Graham gives a public reading. A recognized authority on celluloid Texas, Graham provides a rich sampling of his knowledge of Texas movies in pieces that blanket the territory from moo-cow cattle-drive epics to soggy Alamo sagas to urban cowboy melodramas. In the larger-than-life state that is Texas, nobody sizes up the Lone-Star mythos, its interpreters, boosters and detractors better than Don Graham.